While Dumbo has been attracting hipsters for quite awhile, it’s taken some time for good food to move in as well. Luckily, Dumbo now has Governor, a hip new restaurant from the team behind Colonie and Gran Eléctrica. The farm-to-table restaurant takes what could be a tired theme and, very ambitiously, reinvents it, yet again.

The restaurant itself offers a bar with counter seats and an excellent view, as well as a dining room with a living wall of greenery.

Brad McDonald’s open kitchen turns out a locally sourced menu of delicious, ever-changing choices. The dishes are simultaneously ambitious and approachable, like striped bass with fish sauce and cilantro, dressed up with tapioca for texture (27), or steak tartare with a hen egg, seasoned with ají dulce (12). Each of the dishes is featured on one of three sections of the menu, labeled 1, 2, and 3, with a fourth section for dessert, which includes seasonal items, like pumpkin seed ice cream with mulled wine and oat crumble, dressed up with balsamic (9) or a honey soufflé with Earl grey crème anglaise (12).

The drinks menu comprises several cocktails, like the Governor’s Lady (13) made of organic gin, beet-infused Saint-Germain, Cointreau and lemon-elderflower cordial. You’ll also find a small variety of Old and New World wines by the glass – notably a few from Austria – and several local and American-brewed beers.

Chef McDonald’s technique-heavy ambition could be leftover from his stints at Noma, in Copenhagen, or Per Se. But instead of alienating the diner with pretentiousness, it includes him with a suggestion of familiar food. The homemade bread, made daily for the restaurant, is perfect when paired with butter and radishes (7), a feature of the first section of the menu. Simple, unique and perfect.