Cititour: The New York Guide to Events, Restaurants, Music, and Nightlife

Dinner at Victor in Gowanus

June 22, 2021, 7:03.44 pm ET

If you haven’t been to Victor in the old Freek’s Mill space in the Gowanus section of Brooklyn, you don’t know what you’re missing.  The restaurant with its open kitchen and plenty of outside space has a laid back vibe and excellent Mediterranean fare.  Chefs Ryan Angulo and Ian Alvarez (Butter Channel, French Louie) are the forces behind Victor specializing in small plates for sharing and some larger ones.


Start with some Fried Dates stuffed with macadamia nuts and dusted with manchego cheese. They’re addictive. Oysters are roasted with merguez sausage, bread crumbs and lemon. But the real star is the charred octopus served as a salad with olive, vibrant lettuces, fennel and a puree of garlic and herbs. The octopus is melt-in-your-mouth delicious and a highlight of the meal.


Other offerings include a beet and radicchio salad with orange jam and smoked ricotta salata, baccalau with gigante beans, and smoked paprika prawns with almond aioli. Larger plates bring whole fish with preserved orange and sesame gremolata, and chicken with anchovy salsa verde and charred chicories.  My son devoured his Le Burger with cornichons and crispy fries. 


The special this day was a bone-in Berkshire pork chop perfectly prepared with blistered shishitos, Tokyo turnips and summer squash. The healthy veggies offsetting any guilt you may have from diving into all of that porky goodness.  On the sweet side, Basque cheesecake, chocolate budino and an apple-walnut cake are counted among the desserts.


Victor also has a deft hand at creating skillful cocktails like the Birds-of-Paradise with dark rum, cynar, pineapple and agave, and Byrrh Me! with byrrh (similar to a light port), contratto bitters and prosecco. A well-choreographed wine selection is also available with bubbles, red, white, orange and rosé varieties by the glass or bottle, as well as some magnums. Craft beers include Wild East Temperance Dark Ale and Finback Crispy Morning Pils. - TR

Victor is located at 285 Nevins Street, Brooklyn, NY (347) 889-6588

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