Cuisine: Japanese , Sushi
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Whether it’s art, clothing or food, SoHo is a place where style counts as much as substance. That lesson has been taken to heart by Sunny Lee, the owner of Sogo N.Y, a delightful Japanese restaurant that is notable for the beautiful presentation of its cuisine as well as its deliciousness and freshness.Review By: Brian Scott Lipton
It may take you a little time to navigate Sogo’s two-sided menu, which complements a vast sushi selection with about two dozen soups, appetizers, salads and a small sampling of cooked entrees. But no matter, you can make your decisions while sipping one of the superb cocktails created by the house’s very charming mixologist, Chi Chu; he presented us with the perfect harbinger of spring by creating a luscious libation of sake, melon liqueur, pear nectar and slivers of fresh cucumber.
Sogo’s culinary creations extend from traditional Japanese fare to fusion-inspired dishes, and the kitchen does equally well on both ends. A sprightly salad of mixed greens topped with four slices of excellent, lightly-seared tuna is given extra oomph by a beautifully conceived dressing of sesame oil and fruit wines. Shrimp and vegetable tempura (available as an appetizer) is nicely light and greaseless, as are a quartet of superb fried oysters enlivened by two dipping sauces. What is labeled rather too complexly as “scallion wrapped in sliced beef flank steak with teriyaki and cream sauce,” is really just a first-rate rendition of classic negimaki; while a dish described simply as “shrimp and mango in fruit sauce” turns out to be a large Napoleon-like structure of mango slices and sweet crustacean doused in a mango sauce.
Of course, no visit to Sogo would be complete with sampling the sushi, and there’s no better display of the chef’s skill than with their signature creation, the Spicy Dymanite Roll. It combines spicy tuna, spicy salmon and spicy yellowtail for its filling, all topped with a slice of eel, a toss of spicy crab meat and a sprinkling of tempura flakes. Its interplay of tastes and textures is truly extraordinary.
Unlike at many Asian restaurants, desserts are worth saving room for. A delicious ginger crème brulee is served in a small Japanese ceramic cup, accompanied by a scoop of lemon sorbet and a triangle of sesame cake, while a fine warm molten chocolate cake is accented by bracing coconut ice cream.
So if the question is “to go or not to go to Sogo,” the answer is most definitely, “go!”
Entree Price: $10-15
Payment: Accepts Credit Cards
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