Lowering The Stakes
Type of Place: Restaurants
Description:
Lowering the Stakes
By Brian Scott Lipton
Amidst the falling temperatures of January, even diners who usually resist the siren call of red meat can find their resolve weakening. But who wants to max out the credit card just to have a steak – a far-from-uncommon occurrence in the current climate of haute steakhouses and Peter Luger spinoffs? Fortunately, the city offers more than its fair share of appealing steak options in the $15-$25 range
Guantanamera (939 Eighth Avenue, 262-5354)
This lively Cuban eatery offers plenty of Havanian specialties, from its signature mojitos to arroz con pollo and camarones al ajillo, to tempt the tongue. But it’s a true mecca for steak fanciers, who will find no fewer than four options, from the traditional Vata Frica (fried steak) to the Bistec Empanizado, a breaded sirloin steak topped with mesculun salad and fresh tomatoes, to the Bistec Embollado, a large and meaty sirloin topped with a heap of sautéed onions.
Pigalle (790 Eighth Avenue. 489-2233)
I’ve never been sure if there’s some irony intended by naming this always-packed theater district favorite after the Parisian quarter known for its sex shows and prostitutes. Regardless, Pigalle is a true specialist in Bistro fare, including such Gallic favorites as pate, cassoulet, and escargot. But don’t be surprised if you see steak on your fellow diner’s plate; whether it’s the excellent grilled skirt steak topped with a red wine sauce, a traditional steak frites, or a steak au poivre. And unlike at your upscale steakhouse, potatoes and vegetables are included with each dish, and the house allows side dish substitutions for a mere $2.
Metro Marche (625 Eighth Avenue. 239-1010)
Ok, we will be the first to admit that the Port Authority Bus Terminal isn’t the first place that springs to mind when we think “nice dinner.” But this remarkably classy spot nestled just at the 41st Street entrance has become a reliable favorite (and one of the few places we’re able to grab a prime table on a pre-theater Saturday night!) The grilled shell steak is decidedly pleasing, and we love the fact that you get to choose your two side dishes from an array of tempting options, including excellent Brussels sprouts, haricots vert, sautéed mushrooms, and three types of potatoes. And oh yes, the same deal applies to grilled salmon and grilled yellowfin tuna, as well.
The Smith (55 Third Avenue. 420-9800)
This recently opened East Village eatery (on the former site of Pizzeria Uno) has quickly become a favorite of NYU students, especially on Sunday nights when a burger and beer can be had for just $12. But steak fans take note – you’re not alone. The Smith offers a hanger steak, a “bar steak,” and, best of all, a strip streak – all at extremely reasonable prices – each accompanied by your choice of fries or salad (and we mean lots of salad), and one of three sauces, including the caloric béarnaise or the considerably healthier and absolutely delicious chimichurri.
Ottomanelli’s (1424 Lexington Avenue. 426-6886)
In just a couple of years, this Upper East Side corner eatery has attracted sizable (as in sometimes out the door) crowds, due in large part to its fine food, enormous portions, and shockingly low prices. But its best deal may well be Dr. Eric’s Hanger Steak, surprisingly tender and flavorful and large enough for two, not even counting the large mound of addictively delicious mashed potatoes and sautéed veggies that come with the meat. The restaurant recently added a cocktail list (beer and wine have long been available) to make the dining experience truly complete.
Lowering The Stakes
New York, NY
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