NYC Restaurants

New York steakhouses can sometimes be too intimidating
with their surly waiters, boys-only clubhouse atmosphere, and obscenely large portions. Fortunately, Bistro Le Steak is anything but your typical steakhouse in those regards, making it an ideal spot for either an every-day dinner or a special occasion (such as this writer’s recent birthday).

Unlike other steakhouses as well, appetizers here are basically single portion-sized. The fried calamari is nicely crispy, as are a plate of fried oysters accompanied by a small salad. Speaking of salads, a platter of lettuce, tomatoes and Roquefort dressing was a big hit with one finicky tablemate, while another adored a special salad made with green apples. For a particularly hearty beginning, you won’t go wrong with the first-rate wild mushroom streudel.

The house’s steaks, while maybe not quite as good as Peter Luger’s, are all consistently delicious, from the filet mignon au poivre to the truly beefy 16oz New York cut sirloin (the menu’s most expensive item at $29.95). If you like, the steaks can be made even more succulent by a dash of Bistro Le Steak’s unusual provencale steak sauce. The restaurant also offers naturally raised beef, which we were told was tasty if a bit tougher than the standard cut; it’s also considerably less expensive. Non-steak lovers aren’t left out; the menu includes a variety of fish and seafood dishes, as well as chicken, lamb and duck options

Side dishes are a la carte, and you can get by with one for a table of two or three. But go ahead and sample a bunch, from the excellent pomme frites to the fine creamed spinach to the addictive onion rings. You won’t be sorry.

You will be sorry, however, if you don’t leave a little room for dessert. An excellent lemon tart topped with a smattering of blueberries was a wonderfully refreshing finale, but chocolate mousse or crème brulee can also satisfy your sweet tooth.