Gus' Place

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Gus' Place

Photo: Cititour.com

Contact Info:

Address: 192 Bleecker St (MacDougal St)
City: New York, NY
Zip: 10012
map: View the Map
Phone: (212) 777-1660

Food Info:

Cuisine: Greek

Cititour Review:

“You look familiar,” owner Gus Theodoro might intone the minute you walk into his namesake eatery, Gus’ Place. From someone else’s lips, the phrase might sound like oily salesmanship or mere flattery, but Theodoro is nothing if not a sincere man. His well-known geniality was one reason the original Gus’ Place lasted for nearly two decades on Waverly Place in the West Village before closing in 2005, and it’s sure to contribute to the success of this new, smaller incarnation on Bleecker Street, just east of Sixth Avenue. The new Gus’ is decidedly modest, seating under 50 in both tables and diner-like booths. But Theodoro has given the space a homey charm, complete with authentic Greek products such as olive oil decorating its shelves. (The products are all for sale, by the way.) On any given night, the restaurant is likely to be shared by neighborhood denizens -- both single diners and larger parties – all of whom can indulge in a nicely compiled selection of Greek beer and wine and lovingly prepared and often delicious Greek and Mediterranean food. For example, the stuffed grape leaves (listed under their authentic name, dolmades) are truly exemplary, filled with tasty rice and topped with a slightly creamy sauce. Consider sharing them and the house’s excellent spanikopita, a trio of crisp phyllo triangles filled with an intoxicating mixture of spinach and feta cheese. A quartet of slightly spicy lamb sausages is also an appealing nibble with your first glass of wine or beer. There are over a dozen so-called large plates to choose from, ranging from vegetarian options like a Moroccan vegetable tagine or whole wheat parpardelle with mushrooms, spinach, and graviera cheese to hearty meat dishes like braised lamb shank in a cinnamon-tomato sauce or grilled Black Angus steak. But it’s hard to imagine anything more satisfying than tender clay potted chicken served over creamy polenta, enlivened by apricots and figs. It’s comfort food taken to the nth degree. If you’re seeking something a little more suited for warm weather, you can opt for one of the numerous fish and seafood dishes, such as shrimp saganaki or the Kakavia, the Greek variation on bouillabaisse that derives its signature taste from fennel and saffron in the broth. The finales include a host of Hellenic sweet treats, including baklava, to somewhat more Continental options, such as a decent crème brulee. But the best ending is walking out the door to a fond farewell from Gus – and knowing you’ll be back again.

 

Review By: Brian Scott Lipton

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