Khyber Grill
Contact Info:
Address: 230 East 58th St
City: New York, NY
Zip: 10022
map: View the Map
Phone: (212) 339-0090
Food Info:
Cuisine:
Indian
Cititour Review:
The block of East 58th Street between Second and Third Avenues has become one of the city's most well traveled thoroughfares -- as one of the entrances to the Queensboro Bridge -- as well as one of its most unusual. It hosts an intriguing mix of high-end decorating shops, ultra-expensive Italian restaurants, a pair of gay bars, and, most surprisingly, a slew of upscale Indian restaurants. The new Indian kid on the block is Khyber Grill, which has taken over the Bukhara Grill space, and it is a very welcome addition. Shoppers in the area might want to take advantage of Khyber Grill at lunch time, when it offers a 24-course buffet, but a more leisurely adventure awaits you at dinner time. If you can come with a large-enough group, you can do a lot of sampling by ordering Khyber's two starter platters: one dedicated to meat and fish dishes, the other to vegetarian ones. If you have to limit your options, I'd recommend the achari mushrooms, which have been marinated in a pickle seasoning and then cooked in the tandoor; paneer tikka, cubes of homemade cottage cheese marinated in spices; the firm, tasty tandoori shrimp; or the very fine fish tikka, made with excellent salmon. As is true of many Indian restaurants, Khyber Grill specializes in lamb dishes. Lamb chops cooked in the tandoor oven arrive with a tasty marinade of yogurt, ginger and garlic, while sikandari raan offers chunks of leg of lamb in its own unusual sauce. Chicken tikka masala, another Indian staple, is done well here, with a nicely flavored creamy tomato sauce. A couple of vegetarian dishes were also a big hit at our table, including rounds of eggplant topped with fresh cheese, and an unusual dish of cooked mustard greens which provides a fine complement for the out-of-the-ordinary (if slightly disappointing) corn bread called Makki Ki Roti. Indian desserts aren't my thing, but my tablemates gave praise to the house's rasmali (cottage cheese dumplings) and kheer, a slow cooked rice pudding. In fact, those drivers should take notice -- it could make a bumpy bridge crossing a lot easier to swallow.
Review By: Brian Scott Lipton
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