NYC Restaurants

China is out, and French is in at Andrew Carmellini's newest hot spot, Lafayette, which is already luring a sexy crowd with its curved, coffee-colored banquettes and arched windows, or maybe they never left. Gone is the dim sum and chop stix and in its place, a new French brasserie and patisserie. The menu features French market items like crab tartine and duck mousse with cherries and walnuts. There is grilled Mediterranean octopus ($17) along with beef tartare ($19) served with poached marrow. Larger plates range from linguine ($25) with seafood and chorizo to steak frites ($28), and duck au poivre ($30) with smoked bacon. A visit to the bakery finds a nice offering of homemade breads, fruit tarts and cream-filled pastries.

- Thomas Rafael