Thomas Beisl

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Thomas Beisl

Photo: Cititour.com

Contact Info:

Address: 25 Lafayette Ave (near Ashland Pl)
City: Brooklyn, NY
Zip: 11217
map: View the Map
Phone: (718) 222-5800

Food Info:

Cuisine: Austrian

Cititour Review:

Fort Greene is slowly becoming one of the city’s dining destinations, but Thomas Frelesch, was something of a pioneer when he opened his charming Austrian eatery Thomas Beisl a few years back. True, Frelesch, a veteran of Café des Artistes, had something of a built-in clientele, since the restaurant is directly across from BAM. But it was still a risky proposition -- one that is continuing to pay off.

Having had a couple of lovely dinners there over the years, I decided to come in for my first pre-theater Sunday Brunch before a recent performance. But despite some tempting-sound Brunch-like options, such as French toast, omelets, and Eggs Benedict, my dining companion Evie and I headed straight for the heartier, more lunch-like fare. Indeed, how can one possibly pass up the delicious chicken paprikash, the tender poultry bathed in a spicy, peppery sauce lightened by a dollop a sour cream, and paired in the bowl with buttery spaetzle. We took a chance on the Viennese meatloaf sandwich and were amply rewarded with extremely flavorful slices of moist meatloaf teamed with cucumber and pickled jalapenos on crunchy rye toast, accompanied by tasty homemade French fries. (The dish was also available in an entrée serving topped with creamy mushroom gravy.)

With a curtain to catch and a waiter who seemed to be ignoring us -- service is the restaurant’s weak point -- I feared we wouldn’t have time to sample the house’s desserts. Fortunately, I got his attention in time. The apple streudel with its properly flaky crust and its cinnamon-scented and raisin-flecked interior is perfection. (Indeed, Evie, who is the best baker I know, raved about it long after lunch). The linzer torte, Austrian’s native specialty, was a tad dry for my taste, though the copious dollop of schlag (whipped cream) helped perk things up. Of course, being part Viennese myself, I know everything tastes better with schlag!

 

Review By: Brian Scott Lipton

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