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Momofuku Noodle Bar Revisited
January 2, 2025, 11:47.07 pm ET

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Photos: Cititour.com

We recently had a chance to return to David’s Chang’s Momofuku Noodle Bar on the Upper West Side, one of two locations still operating in the city, and recently marked 20th Anniversary. The Momofuku empire though has been slimming down post-pandemic with the closing of Momofuku Ssam Bar at the Seaport and Momofuku Ko, Chang’s 2-Michelin star restaurant at 8 Extra Place in the Bowery. In the past year, Chang also found himself embroiled in a battle over "chili crunch." Chang trademarked it, but backed off when he was accused of bullying small business.

Stepping into Momofuku at Columbus Circle, felt like we had stepped back in time to happier days when it was all about the genius of the food that Chang was putting out. I’m glad to say it hasn’t changed. The place was bustling with dining room and noodle bar fully booked. After a short wait, a couple of seats opened at the bar.

We started with Steamed Shrimp Buns, that were more like over-sized shrimp patties spread out over delicate rice buns served with spicy mayo, pickled red onion and iceberg. Amazing.

Then there were the Spicy Tuna Hand Rolls. What arrived were two small bowls, one piled high with tuna in a spicy sauce with Fresno peppers and Thai Bird chili with hints of sesame and a bowl of rice dusted with a special spice-herb mixture. Next to the bowls were pre-cut sheets of nori for make-your-own hand rolls. It was a fun experience and the tuna mixture is divine.

For the main course we shared a house special Kimchi Stew (top) with pork belly served with rice cakes in a vibrant broth. A satisfying bowl of ramen arrived sporting a thick slice of smoked pork belly on top, poached egg, bamboo, carrot chili, and of course, Chang’s famous noodles. It remains a fan favorite.

Adding to the excitement – cocktails – like the Midnight Daquiri made with dark rum, velvet falernum, lime and angostura; Iced Cucumber Saketini, a pre-made drink that arrives in a chilled bottle with dill aquavit and sprig of dill planted in the glass; and the Frozen Pina Colada, a slushy mix of mango, pineapple and coconut, that can be had alcohol free, or flooded with dark rum. We recommend the latter.

No word yet on what the future holds for David Chang and Momofuku in the city. There are reports Momofuku may be planning its next act with a restaurant operated by Paul Carmichael, who ran Má Pêche, or maybe a version of Super Peach, set to open in Century City in California later this year. But until then, will be happy sipping our cocktails and noshing on some of those delicious shrimp buns.

- Thomas Rafael


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