The Citiblog

Sushi Atelier Kintsugi Omakase Appoints Executive Chef
October 5, 2023, 7:05.05 pm ET

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Photos: Kintsugi

Tucked away on the fringes of SoHo, Tribeca and Hudson Square is Kintsugi Omakase.

This understated, fashionable sushi atelier is the work of partners Ashe Yeung, a designer, and Tim Madrid, an Art Director. Together, along with newly-appointed Executive Chef Victor Chen (formerly of New York Sushi Ko), have created “Kintsugi,” named after Japanese art of putting broken pottery pieces back together with gold to embrace imperfections.

The dining room is centered around the natural wood 10-seat sushi counter, which is framed by dark charcoal walls. Soothing light is filtered through Japanese wooden slats creating a relaxing mood.

The small jewel box sushi counter serves three tiers of premium omakase including seasonal appetizers and sushi: The Kintsugi Omakase, a 16-course service for $195; The Soho Experience, a 13-course experience for $155; and The Grand Street Classic, a 10-course meal for $95. All tastings also include a sushi chef’s choice of handroll, gourmet miso soup, tamago, and seasonal dessert.

Chef Chen prepares his sushi in the traditional edomae style, but unlike many other sushi chefs, he does not solely use Japanese ingredients. A long-standing relationship with fishmongers allows Kintsugi Omakase to offer locally sourced fish, enabling for a broader selection.

The nigiri progression may feature selections such as: Seabream sourced from Greece; Toro Sarawa, the winter season Spanish Mackerel, that fishermen branded “Toro” to emphasize the extreme fat content; Akami-zuke, lean bluefin tuna marinated in soy sauce; Otoro, tuna sourced from Boston, which is currently in season; Baby King Salmon; and Nodoguro, blackthroat seaperch that is often referred to as the “Wagyu of the sea”. Chef Victor’s signature Smoked Uni Nigiri, a blend of four uni varieties lightly smoked and served draped over rice wrapped in nori, is served nightly in each omakase tier.

Regardless of which experience is chosen, Chef Victor’s service always includes some of his imaginative starters with exciting flavor combinations: Spanish Mackeral lightly smoked and served with grated green apple, representing “the Big Apple”; Ankimo, monkfish liver topped with a piece of Narazuke (melon pickled in sake lees); and his signature Amadai, tilefish with crispy scales and accompanied by baby corn and shishito pepper, which remains constant.

Seasonal desserts rotate, with an emphasis on Tamago, which is lightly sugared and torched for guests to enjoy warm. Also offered is a broad selection of ice cream imported from Japan such as traditional Japanese flavors of Hojicha and Black Sesame ice cream. Featured Japanese Spirits are also offered, headlined by a selection of rare Japanese whisky and gin, as well as Japanese beer and wine.

Kintsugi is located at 28 Grand Street New York, NY. For more information, visit kintsuginyc.com


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